MY SOULS HOME

SUN CHASER  //  WAVE RIDER //  STAR GAZER  //  GYPSY SOUL  //  ADVENTURER

Layers of water, sand, trees, and fog.

My soul found a home here three years ago.

I learned to surf in those cold waves.  I fell in love with how it felt to be moved and pushed by that unstoppable force. To be so small in that expanse.  To master letting go and letting the water move me where I needed to be.  I used to just lay out there for hours, escaping the world.  Back on my board, feet dangling in the water, out past the break where there’s nothing but the sound of oceanic silence and my own heartbeat.

I learned meditation on those cold fallen trees strewn on the sand.  To sit in silence at dusk and dawn, breathing in the salty mossy scent of the forest and cliffs.  I came to love the solitude that I once feared.

I learned friendship and love on those rocky beaches by midnight bonfires. Intoxicating music, laughter, love, and connection.  Nothing compares to the after hours of surfing, wet suits tossed over tree branches and stone, laughter and whiskey to keep us warm.

I set out at 5 am.  The beach was all mine, the waves too.  Surfing into the hazy sunrise.  It’s one of the places my soul will always call home, will always be drawn to, called to.